Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and travelers alike celebrating its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, UNESCO recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a select list of global cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it joins a global network of cities metropolises across over 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "demonstrates its profound culinary traditions and vibrant food ecosystem," as stated by a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 cities around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this venerable city arrives as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, chaotic, and diverse city – the capital of India's most populous state – is now in the global gaze for what has consistently defined its soul: an immense love for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a ongoing dialogue from waking up until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, refined, and elevated to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of food experimentation, fusing Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases local ingredients but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – little-known treasures that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a unpretentious joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and demanding. The cook hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though say that their children are reluctant to master the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will encourage more people around the world to explore these stories and visit the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
